Domaine Alain Hudelot-Noëllat
Burgundy
Côte de Nuits
Domaine Hudelot-Noëllat wines have been among the best in Burgundy for generations. The domaine was run by Alain Hudelot-Noëllat for over 30 years until 2007, when he turned 67. In 2008, he stepped down as his grandson, Charles van Canneyt, completed his formal wine studies at Dijon University and took over the domaine. Since 2005, Alain has been assisted by Vincent Meunier, who continues to work with Charles.
This fantastic domaine has further excelled from being one of the best in the entire Côte d’Or to the highest level, with its top wines—Richebourg, Romanée St. Vivant, Vosne-Romanée Les Malconsorts, Les Beaumonts, and Les Suchots—gaining status as some of the best in their appellation, both among wine critics and Burgundy enthusiasts worldwide.
The Romanée St. Vivant vines were planted in 1920, and most other crus, including Richebourg, were planted between 1920 and 1950. As is common among the young, top new generation winemakers in Burgundy today, no effort is spared in the vineyards. The philosophy of maintaining healthy vines to lead to healthy grapes for better wines is carefully followed.
During vintage, careful sorting is done in the vineyards, followed by further detailed sorting in the winery before the juice is carefully brought into the concrete enameled fermentation tanks. Charles’s philosophy is to retain up to 20% of the stems with the juice, especially in vintages and appellations where the fruit can support the extra tannins. The wines are aged in casks, primarily from Allier, with some from the Vosges and local Citeaux.
Hudelot-Noëllat Richebourg and Romanée St. Vivant represent the pinnacle of Charles’s considerable achievements and follow, albeit in a more complex and powerful manner, the general Hudelot-Noëllat style. Although the 93-year-old vines in Romanée St. Vivant provide an extra dimension of depth, neither wine is overbalanced by clumsy fruit that might threaten the underlying finesse. Richebourg is altogether bigger than Romanée St. Vivant, with great power and majestic depth. In contrast, Romanée St. Vivant showcases more obvious refinement and elegance, yet retains an underlying, restrained power.
Hudelot-Noëllat Clos de Vougeot is one of the best from this variable Grand Cru. The quality of this wine improved significantly after Alain sold its lower parcel, located on the lower slope of the vineyard near the RN 74. This reduced total production by 40%, but the domaine retained only the two parcels near the Château, neighboring Domaine Leroy’s parcel.
The Premier Crus, Vosne-Romanée Les Beaumonts, Les Suchots, and Malconsorts, all consist of nearly 100-year-old vines and produce the finest examples of these exceptional terroirs.